How a Kilo works
A handle with a knob, a gear-reduction drive with a stainless steel lead screw and a stainless-lined brew chamber. No pump, no heater, no electricals. This page takes the machine apart — what each part does, why it is made the way it is, and what it asks of you.
Most of it, we make ourselves
Every part of a Kilo, laid out in the order it goes together. The gears, certain seals, the handle, the drip tray and the stand are made in our workshop. The aluminum housing is machined outside, by a shop with the equipment it needs; the gauge and standard fasteners are bought in.
Built for nine bars from a light turn
A lever machine trades effort for pressure: nine bars asks for your whole arm. Kilo puts a gear-reduction drive and a lead screw between the handle and the plunger. Each turn of the handle moves the plunger a short, precise distance, so the force arrives slowly and evenly. It's designed so that "two" fingers are enough to generate pressure.
Because nothing is automated, the pressure profile is yours. Soak the puck gently, ramp up, hold, ease off at the end. The gauge on top shows exactly where you are; your hand decides where to go. Shot is too fast — grind finer, too slow — grind coarser.
Why there is no preheating
On most manual machines, the first thing your hot water meets is a heavy block of cold metal. The metal wins. So you preheat — flush it, wait, flush again — and every shot depends on how patient you were.
We turned the problem around. The brew chamber is lined with stainless steel machined in-house to under a millimeter, so there is almost no mass to warm. Outside the liner sits insulation, so what little heat moves into the steel stays there instead of bleeding into the body. That is how the preheating step is designed out.
Watch it measured
A shot, start to finish
If you already make espresso, most of this is familiar. The grind, the tamp, puck-prep exactly as on any prosumer machine. What changes is the part in the middle — and how little waiting there is around it.
Boil
Heat water in the kettle you already own. There is nothing to switch on, and no preheating step.
Grind and tamp
Grind and tamp exactly as you would for any prosumer machine. Mount the portafilter.
Pour
Pour straight into the brew chamber from the top.
Turn
Turn the handle and watch the gauge. Soak, ramp, hold, taper — as fast or as slow as you like.
Reset
Back the plunger up, knock out the puck. Ready for the next shot straight away.
Metal, chosen part by part
Each material is there for a job. Stainless steel where water and coffee touch. Aluminum where the machine needs to be rigid but not heavy. A hard black finish where hands and cups land every day. The parts that benefit from handwork are made in our Vancouver workshop, and every machine is inspected against our checklist before it ships.
Very little to look after
With no boiler there is no scale to fight. With no motor or board there is nothing to fail quietly inside a housing. Care comes down to cleaning and regreasing the lead screw now and then, replacing a seal.
- Knock out the puck
- Rinse the portafilter, basket and puck screen
- Empty and rinse the drip tray
- Clean and regrease the lead screw
- Replace a seal if and when needed, no special tools required
- Descaling — there is no boiler
- Firmware updates — there is no board
- Motor service — there is no motor
Every number, in one place
Read enough?
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